2007: A Cautionary Tale

I have some pics I need to upload to help visualize my previous entries on the Philippines--will get to that this weekend.

At present, I'm listening to "Karma Police" by Radiohead. Probably one of the best tunes/bands to listen to while suspended 39,000 feet in the air. Actually, it was at this altitude, on a trip to Florida, that my appreciation of this band developed. Unfortunately, I'm sitting down, back in front of the old desktop, plugging along on reading schedules, assignments, and the like. Karma.

The past five days have sucked. I've been wide awake every evening at 3:00 am. This morning I stayed up until the sun rose, only to awake again an hour later. I've had physical sickness from water, food adjustments. And, my karma, is way off at the dawn of 2007. Why? In the Philippines, most believe that how you spend your new year's eve is indicative of how the rest of your year will go. I laughed this "superstition" off Jan. 1, but now am beginning to believe I am, indeed, cursed.

Here's how my last day of 2006 shook out: To avoid the fireworks and gunfire (a tradition in the RP, and apparently, a dangerous enough one that my mentor wanted to avoid) we took off to Tagaytay, a resort area about 3 hours away from Quezon City. Because we booked our reservations so late, we ended up at this "apartment/hotel" that only cost P2000 for 5 people. This roughly translates into $8 per person. A bargain. Before checking in, we spent the day cruising around the village, taking in the beautiful sites of Lake Taal (pics forthcoming), Imelda Marcos' failed project: People's Park in the Sky, Mahogany Market (typical eating place where we indulged in "special bulalo"), and a swank eating resort that offered a range of ethnic food. By 6pm, we were back at our home away from home, resting, reading, watching tv, and anxiously awaiting the crack of fireworks. Mosquitos were intense this evening, but K and I hung out for a while on the roadside, chatting about this and that, until we finally gave in and retired early. This is where the trouble begins. M and I were in the front room facing the bathroom and its fussy toilet. In other words: flush at own risk. On any other occasion (that is with my stomach cooperating and not revolting against water) this would not have been a big deal. However, with a rumble and a roll, I had to dash to the toilet, pray the thing would flush, and return to my bed unnoticed by surrounding company. Not to be. The whole things overflows (from the tank, base, everywhere, my waste is slowly floating out to my bedroom). And, it's not midnight, yet. Eventually, things subside and go down the floor drain, but it's still a troublesome situation to be in. Next person up: flushes. And the next: overflows. This steady leak of fetid toilet water continues well into the morning (Happy New Year!) with the five of us practically running away from our beloved room. K and I (sorta serious and sorta not) wondered if this meant 2007 would be shitty. Judging from my awful re-entry/re-adjustment since returning to the states: definitely shitty.

If anyone has some old fashioned advice on reversing this trend while it's in its early stages, let me know. Perhaps I should engage in a reenactment of Dec. 31 sans diarreah, leaky toilets, and gunfire?

Philippines Pt. 3

Today is my last day in las islas filipinas. This trip definitely surpasses the one I took 10 years ago. I'm much more politicaly aware these days than I was back then, and I've even surprised myself by just how much I do know about this country. I'm not one too brag, or to boast about knowledge, but I am happy to know that all my years of studying this country has, indeed, paid off.

In my two weeks since I've been here lots has transpired, providing good source material for an essay I plan to launch once I return to the states. The transfer of Daniel Smith to the US embassy, the beginning of the ASEAN summit in Cebu today, the ongoing political killings, the supposed "peak" performance of the peso (now P48.9 to the dollar) for the first time in six years, and the endless propaganda of GMA has given me more than enough to think about.

I've also been wondering about my own role as a researcher interested in furthering and understanding women's liberation in the Philippines. A friend I met here asked me to think seriously about how my work in the US would further women's liberation in the RP. I don't know just yet . . . but I definitely feel that if I contribute anything, it cannot be compared to the level of devotion and committment I've witnessed among the many people I've been fortunate enough to meet. That is, I am safe in the academy writing and analyzing the contemporary situation in the RP, far from the daily, dangerous, bloody struggle that has come to characterize Philippine life in the early part of the 21st century. And, it is a struggle with all sorts of people my age, willing to participate in the revolutionary movement for national liberation--an unfinished struggle begun in 1896 with the launch of the Philippine Republic. I suppose my confusion (angst?) is typical of those who are engaged and committed on an intellectual level, in the classroom, to furthering social justice. It is the clear cut crisis of theory v. practice. I believe Lenin and others always knew that practicioners alone cannot win the struggle . . . and that being a practicioner didn't automatically mean that one would necessarily have a theoretical understanding of the situation. So, perhaps the division between theory and practice, as I've sketched it out here, is truly false. One needs the other . . . but I've always found those engaged in the daily grind of life (brave, willing to die for a cause) far more interesting than what I've become: an intellectual who derives great pleasure from musty books and theoretical argumentation. I'm not prepared to sacrifice the comforts of the "life of the mind" . . . probably because deep down I know I'm just a coward. I can only understand life through words--it is my training and a privilege granted to me by class and nation. And, so, it is with all these inconsistencies and contradicitions in my own life that I will have to find some sort of solace. But the memories and conversations I've shared with those that I've no guarantee will be around the next time I visit will always remain with me. It is the way they have chosen to live their life, that will now always inform the way I choose to live mine.

Philippines Pt.2

Logging on to blogger has been an arduous task since my last entry. Each time I've attempted to post my thoughts after a meeting or a particular interview, I've been thwarted by a "Cannot Find Server" notice. So, this time, I'll spare you with my political ramblings and keep this post focused on my observations as an outsider Fil-Am atempting to negotiate life in the Philippines.

1. Coffee: Whenever the opportunity arises to get fresh "brewed" coffee, take it! Instant coffee is the rage here for obvious reasons: it's cheap and easy to prepare. You don't need a coffee pot. So, it's only been within the past 3 days that I've discovered the joys of a genuine caffeine buzz . . . and I'm no coffee drinker either, but on one particular outing I made a point to down three cups! Also, due to the tropical climes, you will only get powdered creamer.

2. Palmetto Bugs: Gross. The ultimate cockroach. Only this one has wings. I had the unfortunate experience of having one fly over my head the other night and it scared me to death. I swear this thing was the size of a bat!! God. Try to keep your head about you when this occurs and realize that this is part of the adventure.

3. More bugs: Yesterday I awoke with 8 bites concentrated on my right elbow. Being a total germ freak, I've made the necessary adjustments with the ants, the mosquitos, the other unidentifiable things that go bzzz . . . but I'm not so clear on how my one elbow got so mangled in the night. Guess there was more crawling around in the night (or the bed) than I realized.

4. San Miguel Pale Pilsner: That's right. Anyone that knows me understands how much I enjoy my beer. Since I've been immersed in the world of books for 2 solid weeks, I've missed my beer. I finally (can you believe it? 3 days before I'm to leave this country??) found the UP hotel where they have a restaurant selling San Miguel. Oh happy day. Kind of. Being a woman in this country, drinking beer, is often met with strange looks. Beer, afterall, is the world of men. So, I've been twice to the hotel and had beer with my dinner, but my order is always regarded as strange . . .and last night one of the waiters (trying to fuck with me I'm sure) told me to "avail" myself of the special offer: buy 4 beers and get the 5th one free. Feeling weirded out, I slammed my second beer and promptly left. Ah, it aint easy being a woman.

5. Lost in Translation: That's me. I have missed more than half of every conversation I've been involved in. Sad but true. I must take a crash course in Tagalog--just to understand the world around me. I'd feel better taking public transportation too . . .

6. Filipino TV: a propaganda machine for GMA. Every commercial features the same pictures of her holding a sick baby with a bad Filipino band playing in the background. At midnight, she has a show called: The Working President which features GMA in blue jeans cutting ribbons, showcasing sewers, etc. It's a sham and I think most everyone can see right through it. To further divert the population from the grinding socioeconomic conditions around them (the RP is currently on the same level as Bangladesh and Sri Lanka) you can tune into: Philippine Dream Academy, Philippine Idol, and Pinoy Big Brother. The latter is the same series that is in Britain and the US . . . only Pinoy Big Brother cuts out the sex scenes. You can't shake 350 years of Spanish colonization just like that, now can you?

7. Malls, malls, malls: The commodification of everyday life is everywhere around you, making for some very sharp contradictions. For instance, the RP is home to the 3rd largest mall in the world The Mall of Asia (The Mall of America is ranked 6th or 7th). But who can shop at these malls? 70-80% of the population is poor. Not only that, they are hungry. Consumerism is not going to develop this country. But it will depoliticize the youth . . . an unfortunate consequence when you understand the essential role they have historically played in the revolutionary movement here. So, why discuss national liberation when you can go and eat Taco Bell at SM North?

8. Ah, I'm not sure of you can google image the Philippine 100 peso, but if you can, it's worth looking at.

I only have 2 more days in the country, but I'll definitely return. And, this time I won't wait another 10 years. It's too exciting here. There is much to explore, much to discover.

So long from Alicia's Internet Cafe (my home away from home for the past 2 weeks).

Philippines Pt.1

I arrived safe and sound to Aquino International Aiprort Dec. 29. Took the official airport taxi to the University of the Philippines campus and have been having meeting new people almost every day. I've already conducted 3 interviews and I haven't even been here a week!

Initial thoughts:

1. Pollution: It's really terrible to take public transportation around here, even though it is the cheapest, because the air is so thick with fuel, gunk, and fumes that feel like they are asphyxiating you by the end of your ride. Not fun.

2. The legacy of Spanish and US colonialism is evident everywhere you turn around. To even believe this country is remotely independent is a misnomer. Take for example the Daniel Smith case. Smith, a US Marine, was convicted of raping a Filipina woman last year. He was ordered to spend his time in Makati Jail and sentenced to 40 years. On Dec, 29, Smith was shuttled out of the jail and into the safe arms of the US due to the VFA where he will wait his appeal or whatever the hell he's doing. What matters, though, is the soveriegnty of the RP has been completely sacrificed AGAIN. In other words, this country is completely dominated by US interests.

3. The issue of corruption leads me to think about the current administration of GMA. She wants to push through a charter change (referred to as "Cha-Cha" around here) which would effectively change the 1987 constitution. So, for example, right now the RP has rules that states 60% of corporations/businesses have to be owned by Filipinos, with the remaining 40% owned by outside, foreign interests. If this charter change is pushed through, GMA wants to remove these barriers and open up the country to 100% foreign ownership. She also is working on pushing through a "Constiutional Assembly" (known as "Con-Ass" around here) which would ensure here rule and her cronies rule for many years to come (it would move the RP to a parlimentary system). So, everywhere you look you see signs that read: No to Cha-Cha! No to Con-Ass!

4. The military. How can GMA pass these initiatives and retain power? The military. Though the govt. vehemently denies any involvement in the incredible number of political killings ravaging this country (approx. 186 or 187 in 2006), the military is moving from the provinces into the urban centers targetting human rights groups, lawyers, activists, and journalists. Scary. What makes her different from Marcos is she doing all of these things without declaring martial law! And, she's targeting the human rights workers in ways that Marcos never did.

5. The debt. The squatters. The poverty. The privatization of public utilities. The corruption. The endless corruption.

6. For more information check out this site.

7. Committment to political organizing and activism is incredible. Unlike anything I've witnessed in the US. And, the women's movement? I'll save that for tomorrow or the next day. Suffice it to say that this is what a movement really looks like . . .it's not contained and isolated in the hallowed halls of the academy.

From Quezon City, I'm out.